The Curated Dial
IWC Automatic Cal. 853 1604060 (1960–1962)
IWC Automatic Cal. 853 1604060 (1960–1962)
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An early-1960s IWC automatic powered by the revered Calibre 853 with Pellaton winding. Reference 1604060 pairs a 35mm plaqué d’Or L (40µm over brass) case with a clean silver sunburst dial and dauphine hands — an elegant, quietly luxurious take on mid-century IWC design.
Why It’s Special
The Cal. 853 is among IWC’s most celebrated in-house movements — robust, beautifully finished, and built around the ingenious Pellaton winding system. The slim, rounded case follows classic Calatrava-style proportions that defined Swiss dress-watch design in the 1950s and ’60s, giving it timeless versatility and understated refinement on the wrist.
Condition
Good vintage condition overall. The silver sunburst dial shows light, even patina with crisp printing, while the dauphine hands display minor oxidation consistent with age. The case retains its shape and edges, with visible brassing around the outer case-back and lugs — typical for gold-plated examples of this era. The acrylic crystal has been replaced and remains clear. Fitted to an aftermarket leather strap with an aftermarket buckle.
Performance: Running accurately at around –12 seconds per day — evidence of an overhaul by an independent Japanese watchmaker prior to sale, supported by strong timegrapher results and overall presentation.
Details
- Reference: 1604060
 - Movement: IWC Cal. 853 automatic (Pellaton winding system)
 - Serial: 1 580 384 (≈ 1960–1962)
 - Case: 35 mm plaqué d’Or L 40 µm over brass (IWC’s premium gold plating for the era)
 - Crystal: Acrylic
 - Strap: Aftermarket leather with aftermarket buckle
 - Inclusions: Watch only – no box or papers
 - Provenance: Sourced from Japan and inspected in Melbourne
 
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