An early-1990s Must de Cartier Vendôme Vermeil SM in sterling silver with 20 µm gold plating, powered by the Cartier Cal. 90 quartz movement. The compact 24 mm case features an ivory lacquer dial with Roman numerals and distinctive diamond-shaped hour markers — a refined and characterful expression of Cartier’s Must era.
Why It’s Special
The Vendôme SM offers a slightly more contemporary silhouette than the Tank while retaining Cartier’s signature Roman typography and cabochon crown. This example presents with its original dial, correct blued hands, intact crown, and genuine Cartier strap and buckle. The diamond hour markers add subtle visual depth, distinguishing it from standard Roman-only variants. An honest and wearable entry into early-’90s Cartier.
Condition
Original ivory lacquer dial remains clean with no visible moisture damage, spotting, or evidence of refinish. Printed Roman numerals and diamond-shaped hour markers are sharp and evenly applied. Blued steel hands appear original and free from corrosion. Vermeil case (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating) shows honest, visible wear, particularly along the case band and lug edges, with areas of thinning and softening consistent with age and regular use; no evidence of aggressive polishing. Case-back engravings remain legible. Correct crown fitted with intact blue cabochon. Mineral crystal shows light surface marks only. Supplied on a genuine Cartier burgundy leather strap in worn, short-length configuration (≈ 16 cm effective fit), showing creasing and surface wear, paired with a Cartier gold-plated buckle displaying visible wear. Includes a Cartier service pouch.
Performance: Quartz movement running correctly. Battery replaced in December 2025.
Details
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Reference: 590004
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Movement: Cartier quartz Cal. 90
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Serial: 105088 (≈ 1991–1993)
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Case: 24 mm vermeil (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating)
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Crystal: Mineral glass
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Strap: Genuine Cartier burgundy leather strap (short length) with Cartier gold-plated buckle
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Inclusions: Cartier service pouch
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Provenance: Sourced from Japan and inspected in Melbourne
