This late-1980s Cartier Must de Cartier Vendôme, reference 17, is a large 30 mm quartz Vermeil example with the line’s striking black ‘onyx’ style dial. The gloss-black, marker-free surface places the emphasis on the gold-tone sword hands, cabochon crown and softly rounded Vendôme case.
Why It’s Special
The Must programme brought Cartier’s established forms into gold-plated sterling silver during the quartz era, and the Vendôme became one of its clearest expressions of accessible Parisian dress design. Black-dial examples are compelling because they remove the usual Roman numerals altogether, making the watch read more like a piece of Cartier jewellery than a conventional dialled wristwatch.
Condition
Deep glossy black onyx dial is clean and original, with strong reflectivity and no visible cracking or lacquer degradation. Cartier signatures remain crisp. Gold-tone hands and blue cabochon crown were replaced during Cartier service in January 2025 and present in excellent condition. Mineral crystal has light surface wear only. The vermeil case (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating) shows moderate hairlines, softened bezel and case edges, and light plating thinning at high-contact areas, without heavy brassing, structural damage or evidence of replating. Case-back engravings remain legible. Genuine Cartier leather strap and Cartier-signed buckle show moderate wear but remain functional and presentable.
Performance
Serviced by Cartier in January 2025, including movement refurbishment, battery replacement, and replacement of the crown and hands. Quartz movement running correctly following recent Cartier service.
Details
Reference: 17
Movement: Cartier quartz
Serial: 042860 (1989–1991)
Case: 30 mm vermeil (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating)
Crystal: Mineral glass
Strap: Genuine Cartier leather strap with Cartier buckle
Inclusions: Cartier service pouch and Cartier service documentation
Provenance: Sourced locally and inspected in Melbourne
