A late-1980s Must de Cartier Vendôme Onyx Vermeil LM featuring one of the most minimal and distinctive dial configurations within the Must line. Powered by Cartier’s quartz movement, the glossy black onyx dial omits traditional Roman numerals in favour of a clean, reflective surface that contrasts beautifully against the warm vermeil case. A refined and less commonly seen Cartier dress piece with strong visual character.
Why It’s Special
The Onyx dial Vendôme stands apart from traditional Must de Cartier references through its minimalist presentation and jewellery-like aesthetic. Without numerals or minute markers, the focus shifts entirely to the rich black dial surface and elegant case profile. This example benefits from a recent Cartier service completed in January 2025, including replacement of the crown and handset, offering added confidence while retaining its original vintage character.
Condition
Dial appears clean and original with a deep glossy black onyx finish showing strong reflectivity and no visible cracking or lacquer degradation under normal viewing. Printed “must de Cartier” signature and Cartier script remain crisp and well defined. Gold-tone hands were replaced during Cartier service in January 2025 and present in excellent condition. Mineral crystal appears clean with light surface wear only. Vermeil case (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating) shows moderate surface wear consistent with age, including visible hairlines and softening along bezel edges and case sides. Light thinning of plating is present at high-contact areas, though no heavy brassing or structural damage is evident. Case retains an honest, unpolished appearance with no evidence of replating. Case-back engravings remain clear and legible. Blue cabochon crown was replaced during Cartier service and presents in excellent condition. Fitted with a genuine Cartier leather strap and Cartier-signed buckle showing moderate wear but remaining functional and presentable.
Performance: Serviced by Cartier in January 2025, including movement refurbishment, battery replacement, and replacement of the crown and hands. Quartz movement running correctly following recent Cartier service.
Details
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Reference: 17
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Movement: Cartier quartz
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Serial: 042860 (1989–1991)
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Case: 30 mm vermeil (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating)
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Crystal: Mineral glass
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Strap: Genuine Cartier leather strap with Cartier buckle
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Inclusions: Cartier service pouch and Cartier service documentation
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Provenance: Sourced locally and inspected in Melbourne
