The Curated Dial
Cartier Tank Vermeil SM Quartz 5057001 (1994–1995)
Cartier Tank Vermeil SM Quartz 5057001 (1994–1995)
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The Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil distils Cartier’s signature design into its most timeless form — balanced proportions, crisp Roman numerals, and those unmistakable blued hands. This small model, Ref. 5057001, dates to the mid-1990s and features a sterling-silver case plated in 20µm of gold. Powered by Cartier’s dependable Quartz Calibre 81, it offers effortless wearability and unmistakable Cartier character.
Why It’s Special
Created as a more accessible expression of the classic Tank, the Must de Cartier line introduced precious-metal looks and refined design to a new generation. This example pairs the warmth of its vermeil case with an ivory lacquer dial and crisp black Roman numerals — a quietly luxurious combination that perfectly embodies the 1990s Cartier aesthetic.
Condition
Excellent overall condition with bright, even plating and sharply defined hallmarks (“ARGENT 925 / PLAQUE OR G 20 M”). The ivory dial remains clean and evenly toned, complemented by strong blued hands and a well-preserved cabochon crown. Case shows only light hairlines from normal wear. Fitted with an aftermarket black leather strap and a genuine Cartier buckle.
Performance: Quartz movement running correctly with a fresh battery installed March 2025.
Details
- Reference: 5057001
 - Serial: 126135 (≈ 1994–1995)
 - Movement: Cartier Cal. 81 quartz
 - Case: 21×28 mm vermeil (sterling silver 925 with 20 µm gold plating)
 - Crystal: Mineral glass
 - Strap: Aftermarket black leather with genuine Cartier buckle
 - Inclusions: Inner box — no papers
 - Provenance: Sourced from Japan and inspected in Melbourne
 
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