An early-1990s Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil SM in sterling silver with 20 µm gold plating, powered by the Cartier Cal. 90 quartz movement. The classic 20 × 28 mm small-model Tank case, ivory lacquer dial, blued steel hands, and cabochon crown deliver the timeless proportions that define the Must de Cartier era. A refined, highly wearable vintage Tank with original presentation.
Why It’s Special
The SM Tank Vermeil remains one of the purest expressions of Cartier’s design language — compact, balanced, and unmistakably elegant. This example retains its original ivory lacquer dial with crisp Roman printing, correct blued hands, intact cabochon crown, and original Cartier strap and buckle. Supplied with both inner and outer Cartier boxes, it offers stronger presentation and buyer confidence than typical watch-only examples in the market.
Condition
Original ivory lacquer dial remains clean and evenly aged, with crisp printed Roman numerals and intact minute track. No visible moisture damage, spotting, or evidence of refinish. Blued steel hands appear original and free from corrosion. Vermeil case (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating) shows honest, even wear consistent with age, including light softening at edges and minor thinning in high-contact areas; no evidence of aggressive polishing. Case-back engravings remain clear and legible. Correct crown fitted with intact blue cabochon. Mineral crystal presents clearly with light surface marks only. Original Cartier leather strap shows age-related wear and is fitted with a genuine Cartier gold-plated buckle.
Performance: Quartz movement running correctly.
Details
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Reference: 5057001
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Movement: Cartier quartz Cal. 90
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Serial: 70308 (1991–1992)
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Case: 20 × 28 mm vermeil (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating)
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Crystal: Mineral glass
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Strap: Genuine Cartier leather strap (croc pattern) with Cartier gold-plated buckle
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Inclusions: Inner box and outer box
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Provenance: Sourced from Japan and inspected in Melbourne
