The Curated Dial
Cartier Tank Vermeil SM Quartz 5057001 (1991–1992)
Cartier Tank Vermeil SM Quartz 5057001 (1991–1992)
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This early-1990s Cartier Must de Cartier Tank, reference 5057001, is a small Vermeil quartz Tank with rectangular case, Roman-numeral dial, blued steel hands and blue cabochon crown. Its compact proportions preserve the essential geometry of the Tank in a light, elegant everyday format.
Why It’s Special
The Tank’s design traces to Louis Cartier’s 1917 original and remains one of the most enduring shapes in wristwatch history. During the 1990s, Must de Cartier offered the model in Vermeil with a quartz movement, allowing the classic design to be worn without the ritual of manual winding. Reference 5057001 is an especially concise expression of that idea: modest in scale but instantly identifiable from across a room.
Condition
Original ivory lacquer dial remains clean and evenly aged, with crisp printed Roman numerals and intact minute track. No visible moisture damage, spotting, or evidence of refinish. Blued steel hands appear original and free from corrosion. Vermeil case (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating) shows honest, even wear consistent with age, including light softening at edges and minor thinning in high-contact areas; no evidence of aggressive polishing. Case-back engravings remain clear and legible. Correct crown fitted with intact blue cabochon. Mineral crystal presents clearly with light surface marks only. Original Cartier leather strap shows age-related wear and is fitted with a genuine Cartier gold-plated buckle.
Performance
Quartz movement running correctly.
Details
Reference: 5057001
Movement: Cartier quartz
Serial: 70308
Case: 20 × 28 mm vermeil (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating)
Crystal: Mineral glass
Strap: Genuine Cartier leather strap (croc pattern) with Cartier gold-plated buckle
Inclusions: Inner box and outer box
Provenance: Sourced from Japan and inspected in Melbourne
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