A mid-1990s Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil LM in sterling silver with 20 µm gold plating, powered by Cartier’s quartz movement. The larger 23 × 30 mm LM case offers elegant wrist presence while retaining the classic Tank proportions, paired with its original cream lacquer dial, blued steel hands, and mineral crystal. A highly original late-period Must with documented overhaul.
Why It’s Special
Late-production Must de Cartier Tanks from the mid-1990s are sought after for their improved lacquer stability and refined finishing. This LM example retains its original dial, original mineral crystal, correct crown and cabochon, and genuine Cartier strap and buckle — a level of originality that is increasingly difficult to find. Fully overhauled in December 2025, it offers both period integrity and reduced ownership risk.
Condition
Original Must de Cartier lacquer dial retains an even cream tone with no flaking or moisture damage. Under strong, angled light only, early-stage micro-crazing can be observed beginning to form within the lacquer — a known, age-related characteristic of mid-1990s Must dials — but this is not visible head-on in normal wear. Roman numerals and chemin de fer minute track remain crisp and original. Blued steel hands are correct and clean. Vermeil case (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating) retains a warm, even tone with light edge wear and surface marks consistent with age; no structural damage or aggressive polishing observed. Original mineral crystal is present and shows minor surface scratches visible only at certain angles under direct light. Case-back engravings remain legible. Crown and blue cabochon are original.
Performance: Fully overhauled in December 2025 by a reputable watchmaker. Running correctly and supported by the balance of a 12-month service warranty.
Details
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Reference: 590005
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Movement: Cartier quartz
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Serial: 152699 (1995–1996)
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Case: 23 × 30 mm vermeil (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating)
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Crystal: Original mineral glass
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Strap: Genuine Cartier leather strap (croc pattern) with Cartier buckle (≈ 17 cm effective fit)
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Inclusions: Cartier service pouch
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Provenance: Sourced from Japan and professionally overhauled in Australia
