The Curated Dial
Cartier Tank Vermeil LM Quartz 590005 (1995–1996)
Cartier Tank Vermeil LM Quartz 590005 (1995–1996)
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This Cartier Tank Must, reference 590005, is a Large Model vermeil quartz Tank dating to 1995–1996, with the clean lines and Roman-numeral dial of Cartier’s classic dress watch.
Why It’s Special
The Must de Cartier programme made the Tank’s enduring visual language available in vermeil during the late twentieth century. The Large Model adds measured presence to the design while preserving the straight brancards, cabochon crown and graphic dial that have made the Tank a lasting style reference.
Condition
Original Must de Cartier lacquer dial retains an even cream tone with no flaking or moisture damage. Early-stage micro-crazing is visible only under strong, angled light – an age-related characteristic of mid-1990s Must dials – and is not apparent head-on in normal wear. Roman numerals, minute track and blued steel hands remain crisp. The vermeil case (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating) has light edge wear and surface marks, without structural damage or evidence of aggressive polishing. Original mineral crystal has minor scratches visible only at certain angles; case-back engravings, crown and blue cabochon remain original and intact.
Performance
Fully overhauled in December 2025 by a reputable local watchmaker. Running correctly and supported by the balance of a 12-month service warranty.
Details
Reference: 590005
Movement: Cartier quartz
Serial: 152699
Case: 23 × 30 mm vermeil (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating)
Crystal: Original mineral glass
Strap: Genuine Cartier leather strap (croc pattern) with Cartier buckle
Inclusions: Cartier service pouch
Provenance: Sourced from Japan and professionally overhauled in Melbourne
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