An early-1990s Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil LM in sterling silver with 20 µm gold plating, powered by the Cartier Cal. 90 quartz movement. This larger 23 × 30 mm LM case features the sought-after “column” Roman dial variation, paired with blued steel hands and a classic cabochon crown. A balanced, highly wearable expression of the Must era.
Why It’s Special
The LM Tank Vermeil remains one of the most versatile Must references — offering stronger wrist presence than the SM while retaining elegant proportions. This example features the desirable “column” dial configuration, distinguished by its vertically aligned Roman layout and subtle dial depth. It retains its original ivory lacquer dial, correct blued hands, intact cabochon crown, and original Cartier strap and buckle. An honest, well-preserved LM with strong originality throughout.
Condition
Original ivory lacquer dial remains clean and evenly aged, with sharp printed Roman numerals and intact minute track. No visible moisture damage, spotting, or evidence of refinish. Blued steel hands appear original and well preserved. Vermeil case (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating) shows honest wear throughout, including light softening at edges and minor thinning to high-contact areas consistent with regular use; no evidence of aggressive polishing. Case-back engravings remain legible. Correct crown fitted with intact blue cabochon. Mineral crystal shows light surface marks only. Supplied with its original Cartier leather strap and gold-plated buckle in fair, well-used condition, with creasing consistent with age.
Performance: Quartz movement running correctly.
Details
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Reference: 590005
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Movement: Cartier quartz Cal. 90
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Serial: 108817 (1993–1994)
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Case: 23 × 30 mm vermeil (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating)
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Crystal: Mineral glass
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Strap: Genuine Cartier leather strap (croc pattern) with Cartier gold-plated buckle (≈ 17 cm effective fit)
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Inclusions: Cartier inner box
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Provenance: Sourced from Japan and inspected in Melbourne
