This Cartier Tank Must, reference 590005, is a Large Model vermeil quartz Tank from 1993–1994, defined by its rectangular case and classic Roman-numeral dial layout.
Why It’s Special
Cartier’s Must line brought the enduring Tank vocabulary to a broader audience from the 1970s onward, without losing the clarity of the original design. The Large Model gives the familiar brancards and chemin-de-fer minute track a more substantial wrist presence while remaining unmistakably a Tank.
Condition
Original ivory lacquer dial remains clean and evenly aged, with sharp printed Roman numerals and intact minute track. No visible moisture damage, spotting, or evidence of refinish. Blued steel hands appear original and well preserved. Vermeil case (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating) shows honest wear throughout, including light softening at edges and minor thinning to high-contact areas consistent with use; no evidence of aggressive polishing. Case-back engravings remain legible. Correct crown fitted with intact blue cabochon. Mineral crystal shows light surface marks only. Supplied with its original Cartier leather strap and gold-plated buckle in fair, well-used condition, with creasing consistent with age.
Performance
Quartz movement running correctly.
Details
Reference: 590005 Movement: Cartier quartz Serial: 108817 (1993–1994) Case: 23 × 30 mm vermeil (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating) Crystal: Original mineral glass Strap: Genuine Cartier leather strap (croc pattern) with Cartier gold-plated buckle Inclusions: Cartier inner box Provenance: Sourced from Japan and inspected in Melbourne
