An early-1990s Must de Cartier Tank Vermeil LM in sterling silver with 20 µm gold plating, powered by Cartier’s quartz movement. The larger 23 × 30 mm LM case offers a balanced and wearable take on the classic Tank design, paired with a warm cream lacquer dial, Roman numerals, and blued steel hands. A characterful vintage example with strong everyday appeal.
Why It’s Special
The LM Tank Vermeil remains one of the most versatile Must references — offering improved wrist presence over the SM while retaining Cartier’s signature proportions. This example presents with a clean original dial, correct blued hands, and intact cabochon crown, paired with a genuine Cartier strap and buckle. The case shows honest wear that reflects its age, giving it a softer, lived-in vintage character rather than a refinished appearance.
Condition
Dial appears clean and original with a warm cream tone, crisp printed Roman numerals, and intact minute track. No visible spotting or moisture damage under normal viewing. Blued steel hands are correct and retain strong colour. Original mineral crystal presents clean with only light surface wear. Vermeil case (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating) shows visible surface wear, including softening to edges and thinning of plating along high-contact areas. Subtle silvery tones are visible in places, consistent with honest ageing of the vermeil layer rather than damage or refinishing. Case retains an unpolished appearance with no evidence of replating, and case-back engravings remain clear and well defined. Blue cabochon crown is intact. Fitted with a genuine Cartier leather strap and Cartier-signed buckle in wearable condition.
Performance: Quartz movement running correctly. Battery replaced in February 2026.
Details
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Reference: 590005
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Movement: Cartier quartz
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Serial: 39762 (≈ 1990–1991)
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Case: 23 × 30 mm vermeil (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating)
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Crystal: Original mineral glass
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Strap: Genuine Cartier leather strap (croc pattern) with Cartier gold-plated buckle (≈ 17 cm effective fit)
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Inclusions: Cartier service pouch
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Provenance: Sourced from Japan and inspected in Melbourne
