This early-1990s Cartier Must de Cartier Tank, reference 590005, is a large quartz Vermeil example in the classic 23 × 30 mm Tank format. A warm cream lacquer dial, Roman numerals, blued steel hands and cabochon crown deliver the familiar Cartier design language in a proportion suited to everyday wear.
Why It’s Special
The Tank has been central to Cartier since its 1917 creation, and the Must de Cartier programme revived the design for a new audience from 1977 through gold-plated sterling-silver cases and quartz movements. The large 590005 retains the geometry that makes a Tank immediately recognisable while offering more presence than the smaller Must models. It is a concise expression of the period when Cartier translated an enduring icon into accessible vintage form.
Condition
Warm cream dial is clean and original, with crisp Roman numerals, an intact minute track and no visible spotting or moisture damage. Blued steel hands retain strong colour and the original mineral crystal has light surface wear only. The vermeil case (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating) shows edge softening, high-contact plating thinning and subtle silvery tones from honest ageing, with no evidence of replating. Case-back engravings remain clear and the blue cabochon crown is intact. Genuine Cartier leather strap and Cartier-signed buckle remain wearable.
Performance
Quartz movement running correctly. Battery replaced in February 2026.
Details
Reference: 590005 Movement: Cartier quartz Serial: 39762 Case: 23 × 30 mm vermeil (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating) Crystal: Original mineral glass Strap: Genuine Cartier leather strap (croc pattern) with Cartier gold-plated buckle Inclusions: Cartier service pouch Provenance: Sourced from Japan and inspected in Melbourne
