This mid-1980s Cartier Must de Cartier Tank is a large manual-wind Vermeil example distinguished by its glossy black dial. Rather than the conventional Roman-numeral Tank layout, this reference uses a clean marker-free dial whose deep black surface, gilt-tone hands and rectangular case create a more graphic interpretation of Cartier’s enduring Tank silhouette.
Why It’s Special
Cartier introduced the Must programme in the 1970s, placing classic house designs in Vermeil cases as the quartz era reshaped the watch industry. The Tank remained the centrepiece of that programme, while lacquered and coloured dials allowed Cartier to explore more decorative expressions beyond the formal white-and-Roman-numeral formula. In LM sizing, this manual-wind example retains the tactile daily ritual of a traditional mechanical Tank.
Condition
The black dial shows fine surface marks and small edge abrasions. The signature and Cartier logo remain present, while the gilt-tone hands retain their period character. Mineral crystal has light surface wear. The Vermeil case, stamped Cartier, 925 and Plaqué Or G 20M, shows honest vintage wear including surface marks, discolouration and localised wear to the gold finish. Internal case surfaces show spotting and oxidation/discolouration. The watch is fitted to an Artisan Straps black leather strap with a genuine Cartier buckle.
Performance
Fully serviced in September 2026 by a reputable local watchmaker, including replacement of the mainspring. The watch is running correctly following service.
Details
Reference: Ref. 7 Movement: Cartier manual wind Serial: 045974 Case: 23 × 30 mm Vermeil (sterling silver 925 with ≈ 20 µm gold plating) Crystal: Mineral glass Strap/Bracelet: Artisan Straps black leather strap with genuine Cartier buckle Inclusions: Cartier service pouch Provenance: Sourced from Japan and professionally serviced in Melbourne
