What I Learned Buying My First Vintage Watch

If you’re new to vintage watches, this is a good place to start — honest notes from an enthusiast still learning along the way.

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Buying your first vintage watch is exciting, and at times a little overwhelming. My journey started in London where I tried on dozens of pieces before finally settling on a clean Longines automatic from 1966. It felt like the perfect introduction: classic design, respected brand, approachable price.

But vintage watches come with their own quirks, and that Longines taught me lessons I still carry today. If you’re starting out in vintage collecting, here’s what I learned and what might help you on your own journey.

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1. Ask What Comes With It

The Longines I bought came on a generic leather strap with a plain buckle. At the time I didn’t think much of it — but later I realised that original accessories, like a signed buckle or bracelet, can add both value and charm.

Still, it’s completely normal for straps (and often buckles) to have been replaced over the decades. Leather simply doesn’t last that long. The same goes for boxes and papers: most vintage watches no longer have them. In fact, it’s far more common that they don’t — and when they do appear together, they tend to make a watch more desirable and can lift its value.

What matters most is knowing exactly what you’re getting. That way, you can judge condition, history and value with clear eyes.

✅ Takeaway: Always ask what comes with the watch — strap, bracelet, buckle, box or papers — but don’t be put off if some parts have been replaced or accessories are missing. That’s part of the vintage journey.

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2. “Recently Serviced” Isn’t Always the Same Thing

When I bought the Longines, I was told it had been “recently serviced.” That sounded reassuring, but within a few months one of the hands worked loose — proof it hadn’t been done to the standard I expected.

I quickly learned that “recently serviced” can mean very different things. Sometimes it refers to a light service — perhaps cleaning the case, replacing the crystal or gasket, adjusting timekeeping, or running basic checks without taking the movement apart.

Other times it means a complete overhaul, where the watchmaker fully disassembles the movement, cleans each component, replaces worn parts, reassembles, lubricates, regulates, and tests it over several days.

The best way to know is to ask what was actually done, or request supporting notes, evidence (like timegrapher readings), or receipts. Neither approach is wrong — but it’s important to know which one you’re getting.

This isn’t a criticism of anyone — every seller and watchmaker has their own definition. My takeaway is that clarity matters — if someone can clearly explain what their “service” involved, that’s usually a good sign.

✅ Takeaway: “Recently serviced” can mean many things — it’s always worth asking what was actually done. Understanding the difference helps you buy with confidence and set realistic expectations for maintenance down the track.

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3. Expect the Unexpected

Even with care, vintage watches are mechanical objects that have lived long, busy lives. My Longines eventually needed a complete overhaul because the “light service” it had received before I bought it wasn’t enough — but that experience taught me a lot about what proper maintenance actually looks like.

The upside is that once a watch has been properly overhauled, it should run smoothly for years to come — often five to seven before it needs major attention again. That’s part of the long-term rhythm of owning vintage. It doesn’t mean every watch you buy will need an overhaul straight away, just that servicing is part of the cycle over time.

One of the biggest surprises for me was water resistance — or rather, the lack of it. A watch sold as “waterproof” in the 1960s is unlikely to be waterproof today. Gaskets harden, cases lose their seal, and decades of wear mean moisture is always a risk. Even after pressure testing, I’d never swim or shower with a vintage watch — at best you can expect splash resistance, but as a rule, vintage and water don’t mix.

Overall, buying a vintage watch is a bit like buying a classic car — with the right care it can run beautifully, but you shouldn’t expect it to perform like it just left the factory. The quirks are part of the experience and often part of the charm.

✅ Takeaway: Vintage watches can run beautifully for decades with proper care — just remember that water is their worst enemy. Keep them dry, service them periodically, and they’ll reward you for years to come. Think of care and servicing as part of the long-term ownership rhythm, not a hidden cost.

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4. Buy What You Love

Looking back, part of what drew me to that Longines wasn’t just the clean silver dial — it was the fact that its production era lined up around my dad’s birthday. That small detail gave it meaning beyond price or specifications.

It’s easy to get caught up chasing “investment pieces” or the ones everyone says you should own. But the truth is, the watches that stay with you are the ones that connect on a personal level — whether that’s a design you can’t stop looking at or a story that quietly resonates.

Choose watches you’ll actually wear, because that’s how they build character and history on your wrist. Over time, those choices also sharpen your taste and help you understand what you genuinely appreciate in a watch.

✅ Takeaway: Buy what you love and what you’ll wear. The story and connection are what make a watch special — not its resale value.

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Final Thoughts

That 1966 Longines might not have been the smoothest first purchase, but it set me on the path of collecting with clear eyes. More than anything, it taught me the value of honesty and clarity in this hobby.

When you see a watch listed at The Curated Dial, my promise is simple: I’ll tell you exactly what I know — and I won’t claim what I don’t. Every description is written from the perspective of a fellow collector, not a sales pitch, because I remember exactly what it felt like to be starting out.

Vintage collecting should feel exciting, not intimidating. If these early lessons help someone else approach their first vintage watch with confidence, then that Longines was worth it for the experience alone.